Stories

The Process of Sanforization

Washing Instruction Symbols Fade February Fact #9: A myth with the care of jeans is that they will shrink when washed, but that isn’t usually the case. The majority of  jeans available in the marketplace today have undergone a process called sanforization. Sanforization is the process of stretching and manipulating the yarns of the fabric prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimized. If jeans are not sanforized they can shrink approximately 10% when they get wet, but after sanforization jeans will only shrink up 1-2%, and that’s typically only in the length.

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The Big Three – The Brands That Started it All

Wrangler Jeans, Lee Jeans, Levi Strauss & Co. Fade February Fact #8: There are so many denim brands in the marketplace today that it’s hard to keep track of what’s even available to us, but that hasn’t always been the case. Before denim was fashion, and work-wear was just a style, there were 3 brands that helped start it all. The brands were Lee Jeans, Levi Strauss & Co. and Wrangler. Lee Jeans were first manufactured in 1889 in Kansas, Levi’s were first manufactured in 1873, and Wrangler came on to the scene in the year 1940. Hats of to ‘The Big Three’ for helping get us where we are today.

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Broken Twill – What Does it Mean?

Broken Twill Fade February Fact #7: When Denim is woven into either a right hand twill or a left hand twill and sewn into jeans it has the tendency to twist in its respective direction.  A solution to this problem is the broken twill. As you can see in the picture, a broken twill is woven with 2 stitches to the right, and then 2 stitches to the left, resulting in a jean that will not have twisted seams.

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Left Hand Twill – What Does it Mean?

Kicking Mule Workshop Left Hand Twill Fade February Fact #6: Yesterday we touched on right hand twill, the most common weave of denim. Today we’ll look at left hand twill. This is when denim is woven the opposite way.The weft threads go under three warp threads and then over one, creating a diagonal line to the left on the inside of the denim fabric. Cotton yarns that make up the denim are typically spun to the left, and it is thought that by also weaving the denim to the left that the end product will have a softer hand feel against the skin. Some agree with this, while others feel there is no difference. We’ll let you be the judge.

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Right Hand Twill – What Does it Mean?

Right Hand Twill Fade February Fact #5: When manufacturing denim, there are a few ways to go about making the fabric. All fabric is comprised of warp (up and down) and weft (side to side)  threads. Denim is typically woven in a 3X1 twill, meaning the weft thread goes under 3 warp threads and over one (to the right) creating a diagonal pattern going across and down to the right. It is also known as the ‘Z’ twill because the stitches make a ‘Z’ shape.

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Fade February

“February” starts with an ‘F’ and so does “Fade”. In light of that information we have now deemed February as ‘Fade February’. For the next 25 days we will be posting interesting denim facts, questions, and definitions. The info will range  from the most basic, to facts the most denimy of denim heads might not know. Fade February Fact #1: Raw denim, also known as ‘dry’ denim, is not washed or treated with chemicals when it is manufactured. With lots of wear and love, the result is a jean exclusive to your your body and your life. Something that can’t be replicated. Love Raw!

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